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Gear & Reviews

Chew Toys: Matching the Toy to the Chewer

Gentle nibbler, average chewer, or power chewer — and the thumbnail test that tells you whether a chew is hard enough to break a tooth. Includes affiliate links.

Illustration of a bone on a warm background

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Chewing is a normal, necessary dog behaviour. It relieves boredom, soothes teething, and for many dogs is genuinely calming — licking and chewing both lower arousal.

The question is not whether to let a dog chew. It is what.

Some links on this page are affiliate links. If you buy through them we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you — it helps keep this site free. We only recommend products we would use with our own dogs.

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The thumbnail test

Before buying any chew, press your thumbnail into it. If you cannot make a dent, it is hard enough to fracture a tooth.

This single test rules out most of the things vets see broken teeth from: antlers, hooves, bones, very hard nylon, and some hard plastics.

The carnassial teeth — the big shearing teeth at the back — are the ones that break, usually with a slab fracture down the side. It is painful, it frequently exposes the pulp, and the treatment is extraction or root canal.

Hard chews are not automatically banned; plenty of dogs use them for years without incident. But the risk is real and it is worth making an informed choice rather than assuming anything sold as a dog chew is safe.

Work out what kind of chewer you have

Gentle chewers carry toys, nibble and lick. Plush toys survive months.

Average chewers destroy a plush toy in a week but leave rubber alone.

Power chewers get through rubber. They work methodically, use the back teeth, and are capable of destroying most things within an hour.

Buy for the dog you have. A power chewer given a plush toy will swallow the squeaker and the stuffing, and that is a surgical problem.

By category

Stuffable rubber

The most useful thing in the category, because it combines chewing with licking and problem-solving.

Start here

KONG Classic Dog Toy

Hollow natural rubber you can stuff with food and freeze. The standard red compound suits average chewers; frozen, it lasts several times longer than unfrozen.

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Power chewers

KONG Extreme Dog Toy

The toughest rubber in the range, same hollow design. The right starting point for a dog who destroys standard rubber, rather than buying a series of replacements.

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For puppies, the softer compound matters — adult rubber is too hard for developing teeth and gums.

KONG Puppy Dog Toy

Softer rubber formulated for puppy teeth. Stuff and freeze it for teething relief, which is the most useful thing you can do for a puppy between four and six months.

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Nylon and hard synthetic chews

Long-lasting and popular, with the tooth-fracture caveat. Choose a size too large to fit fully in the mouth, supervise, and replace when worn.

Benebone Wishbone Chew Toy

A curved nylon chew designed so the dog can pin it with their paws and reach it with the back teeth. Very long-lasting — read up on the tooth-fracture question before choosing it for a heavy cruncher, and bin it when the ends wear down.

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Rope toys

Good for tugging, poor as a solo chew. Dogs who ingest strands risk a linear foreign body, which is among the worst kinds of obstruction. Use them interactively, and take them away afterwards.

Plush toys

Comfort items rather than chews. Fine for gentle dogs, supervised only for anyone else. Remove squeakers if your dog dissects to find them.

Edible chews

Dental chews with a VOHC seal have evidence for reducing plaque. They carry calories — count them.

Greenies Teenie Dental Dog Treats

A widely used dental chew with a texture designed to scrape the tooth surface. Match the size to your dog’s weight and subtract the calories from the daily allowance.

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Rawhide is contentious. It softens and can be swallowed in large pieces, causing choking and obstruction, and processing quality varies enormously. Many vets advise against it.

Pig ears, bully sticks and hooves. High in calories and fat, and a recognised source of bacterial contamination. Hooves are hard enough to break teeth.

Antlers. Very hard, very popular, and a frequent cause of fractured teeth.

Teething, specifically

Puppies between about four and seven months are uncomfortable and need something cold and yielding.

Pupstages Cool Teething Stick

A freezable teething chew sized for puppies. Cold is what actually helps sore gums, and having a legal cold thing available reduces the amount of furniture that gets chewed.

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A wet flannel twisted and frozen does much the same job for nothing.

Safety rules

  1. Size up. Anything that fits entirely in the mouth can be swallowed. Buy larger than you think
  2. Supervise new toys for the first few sessions
  3. Inspect before every use and bin anything cracked, splintered or with pieces missing
  4. No cooked bones. Ever. They splinter
  5. Remove small components — squeakers, eyes, ribbons
  6. Rotate. A rotated toy is more interesting than a permanently available one
  7. Count the calories in edible chews

When chewing is a problem

Destructive chewing in an adult dog usually means one of:

  • Boredom — needs more mental work, not more walking
  • Teething, up to about seven months
  • Anxiety, particularly around exits and only when alone. That is separation-related and needs its own plan
  • Hunger, in a dog on a strict diet

Punishing chewing does not work, because the dog is meeting a need. Manage the environment, provide better outlets, and address the underlying cause.

And if your dog chews something dangerous — a sock, a stone, a corn cob, a piece of a toy — ring your vet the same day rather than waiting for symptoms.

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