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Gear & Reviews

Winter Gear: Coats, Boots and Visibility

Which dogs genuinely need a coat, whether boots are worth the fight, and the safety item most owners skip. Includes affiliate links.

Illustration of a bone on a warm background

Some links on this page are affiliate links. If you buy through them we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you — it helps keep this site free. We only recommend products we would use with our own dogs.

Most winter dog gear is optional. Two things are not: paw protection in areas that grit the pavements, and visibility in the dark.

Some links on this page are affiliate links. If you buy through them we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you — it helps keep this site free. We only recommend products we would use with our own dogs.

Coats: who needs one

Genuinely need one:

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  • Thin-coated and single-coated breeds — Greyhounds, Whippets, Italian Greyhounds, Boxers, Dobermans, Staffies, Pointers
  • Toy breeds — Chihuahuas, Yorkies, Miniature Pinschers
  • Puppies and senior dogs
  • Dogs with arthritis, where cold noticeably worsens stiffness
  • Dogs with heart, kidney or endocrine disease
  • Clipped dogs in winter
  • Any dog who visibly shivers

Do not need one: Huskies, Malamutes, Samoyeds, Newfoundlands, Bernese Mountain Dogs, most northern spitz breeds and most thick double-coated working breeds. They are frequently too warm in one.

In between: Labradors, German Shepherds, Collies — fine in most conditions, though a waterproof is useful in prolonged cold rain, which is what actually chills a dog.

What to look for in a coat

  1. Waterproof outer. A wet coat is worse than no coat. This matters more than insulation in most climates
  2. Covers the chest and belly. Most heat is lost from the underside, and that is what contacts snow and slush
  3. Does not restrict shoulder movement. Watch your dog walk in it
  4. Reflective panels
  5. Adjustable, with no rubbing at the armpits
  6. Easy to put on. A coat that takes two people stays in the cupboard
  7. Machine washable

Fit: measure the back from the base of the neck to the base of the tail, plus the chest at its widest. Buy on measurements, not breed.

Paw protection

The winter item that matters most, because road salt causes chemical burns and is a poisoning risk when licked off.

A barrier wax applied before walks stops snow balling between the toes and gives some protection from salt.

Essential in winter

Musher's Secret Paw Wax

Originally developed for sled dogs. Rub it into the pads and between the toes before a walk, and apply again at night to help cracked pads recover. The cheapest genuinely useful piece of winter kit there is.

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Boots are the fuller answer for dogs walking gritted pavements daily, dogs with existing pad damage, and senior dogs who slip on frozen ground.

They need introducing slowly — one boot, in the house, with food, ten seconds at a time, over a fortnight. A dog who has all four strapped on and is marched out will do the famous high-step walk and resist them forever.

Fit matters more than brand. Measure the paw with the dog standing, since the paw spreads under weight. Too loose and they spin off in a hundred metres.

And rinse regardless. After any walk on treated pavements, rinse the feet in lukewarm water and dry between the toes. Salt is invisible once dissolved.

Earth Rated Dog Wipes

For the practical version of the above when a full rinse is not happening. Keep a pack in the hall and do paws and legs as you come through the door.

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Visibility: the item most people skip

In winter most walks happen in the dark, and a dark dog on a wet pavement is effectively invisible to a driver until they are very close.

  • A reflective or light-up collar, and a reflective lead
  • A light clipped to the harness, ideally visible from the side as well as front and back
  • Reflective clothing for you
  • Walk with the dog on the inside, away from traffic
  • Never off lead near roads in the dark

This is cheap and it is the winter purchase most likely to prevent something serious.

Nails

Long nails reduce traction on frozen ground and change how the foot loads. If you can hear clicking on a hard floor, they are too long.

gonicc Dog Nail Clippers

Fortnightly small trims through the winter, when nails are wearing down less on soft or frozen ground.

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Indoors

A warm, draught-free bed, raised off a cold floor, away from external doors. For an older or arthritic dog, warmth makes a noticeable difference to how they move in the morning.

Bedsure Orthopedic Dog Bed

Firm orthopaedic foam with a low entry. Cold and damp genuinely worsen arthritic stiffness, and a supportive warm bed is one of the more effective things you can do about it.

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Non-slip runners on hard floors, which matter more in winter when dogs come in wet.

Enrichment for days too bad to walk. Snuffle mats, puzzle feeders and frozen food toys mean a skipped walk is not a problem.

Snuffle Mat for Dogs

Ten minutes of searching for kibble in a fleece mat tires a dog more than a wet twenty-minute walk, and it can be done in a hallway.

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Winter hazards worth knowing

Antifreeze. Ethylene glycol tastes sweet and very small amounts cause fatal kidney failure. Treatment is time-critical. Clean spills immediately and go to a vet on any suspicion.

Frozen ponds. Keep dogs on a lead near frozen water, and never go onto ice after a dog.

Grit and de-icer stored in the garage.

Christmas: chocolate, raisins in cakes and puddings, cooked bones, tinsel, ribbon, lilies, and button batteries from toys and cards.

What is not worth buying

Fleece coats with no waterproof layer, for rain.

Coats for double-coated northern breeds.

Boots you will not spend a fortnight introducing. They will be worn once and abandoned.

Anything that restricts shoulder movement, however good it looks.

The honest list of things that earn their place: paw wax, a light, a waterproof coat for the dogs who need one, and a warm bed. Everything else is optional.

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