The idea that all dogs can swim instinctively is a myth that has drowned dogs. Some breeds are built for it, some can manage, and some genuinely cannot stay afloat.
Swimming is excellent low-impact exercise and a brilliant outlet on hot days. It is worth teaching properly.
Which dogs struggle
Poor swimmers by build:
- Brachycephalic breeds — Bulldogs, French Bulldogs, Pugs. Heavy front ends, short legs, and a flat face that has to be held high, which tips the body into a sinking angle. Many simply cannot swim.
- Heavy-chested, short-legged breeds — Dachshunds, Basset Hounds, Corgis.
- Very heavy or muscular breeds with low body fat.
- Sighthounds — low fat, low buoyancy, and often not interested.
Natural swimmers: Labradors, Golden Retrievers, Newfoundlands, Portuguese Water Dogs, Standard Poodles, Spaniels, Setters. Webbed feet, water-resistant coats and a body shape that floats level.
Being a natural swimmer does not mean a dog will not get into trouble. It means it starts with an advantage.
Buoyancy aids
A well-fitted dog buoyancy aid is sensible for any dog learning, and essential for poor swimmers, boats, open water, and older or unwell dogs. Look for a handle on the back so you can lift the dog out of the water, and bright colours for visibility.
The staged introduction
Stage 1: shallow and boring
Find calm, shallow water with a gradual entry — a beach at low tide, a shallow lake edge, a stream. Not a pool with vertical sides, and not anywhere with current.
Walk in yourself, up to your ankles. Do not call the dog, do not coax. Potter about. Most dogs follow out of curiosity.
Reward any voluntary approach to the water with something excellent.
Stage 2: paws wet
Over several sessions, encourage the dog to walk in far enough to wet its feet, then its belly. Throw a favourite toy so it lands in a few centimetres of water. Use another confident dog if you have one available — social learning works extremely well here.
Never drag a dog in on a lead. Let it choose.
Stage 3: the first float
Where the water reaches chest depth, support the dog under the belly with one hand and under the chest with the other, and let it feel its feet leave the bottom for a second or two. Then back to standing depth.
Most dogs paddle instinctively with the front legs only at first, which slaps the water and tires them quickly. Supporting the rear end for the first few attempts helps them work out that all four legs are involved.
Keep the first floats to a few seconds.
Stage 4: short swims
Once the dog is paddling with all four legs and holding its head level, allow short swims of a few metres, always towards the exit point, and always with you in the water alongside.
Build duration gradually. Swimming is far more tiring than it looks — a few minutes is a real workout for a beginner.
Stage 5: retrieving and play
Once swimming is comfortable, a floating toy makes it a game. Throw short at first. A dog swimming out after a toy is a dog who has to swim the same distance back, and beginners overestimate themselves.
Chuckit! Ultra Ball
Floats, is highly visible, and is easy to throw accurately into water. Choose a size too large to fit behind the back teeth.
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Safety rules
Always know where the exit is. The most common serious incident is a dog getting into a pool and being unable to find the steps. Teach the exit route first, repeatedly, from every side.
Supervise constantly. No exceptions.
Watch for exhaustion. A tiring dog sits lower in the water, its head drops, and the paddling becomes frantic. Get it out before that point.
Beware currents and tides. Rivers, estuaries and beaches with rips are dangerous for strong swimmers. Dogs do not read water.
Never let a dog swim after something into moving water. Most dogs who drown in rivers went in after a stick, a ball or a bird.
Rinse afterwards. Salt, chlorine and lake water all irritate skin and ears.
Dry the ears thoroughly. Water trapped in the ear canal is a leading cause of infection, especially in floppy-eared breeds.
Earth Rated Dog Wipes
Useful for wiping down the coat and gently drying the outer ear after a swim, before you get home.
Water intoxication
A genuine and underappreciated risk. Dogs that repeatedly retrieve from water, or that bite at hose jets and sprinklers, can swallow large volumes of water, diluting blood sodium dangerously.
Signs: lethargy, vomiting, bloating, staggering, glazed eyes, restlessness, and in severe cases seizures and collapse.
Other hazards
Blue-green algae. Blooms in still fresh water in warm weather, often looking like green scum or paint on the surface. Highly toxic and frequently fatal. Never let a dog swim in or drink from water with visible algal bloom, and wash it immediately if it does.
Leptospirosis. Spread through water contaminated with rat urine. Vaccination is the defence; check your dog’s is current.
Salt water. Drinking sea water causes vomiting and diarrhoea and, in quantity, serious electrolyte problems. Always take fresh water to the beach.
PupFlask Dog Water Bottle
Offer fresh water regularly at the beach or lake so the dog is less inclined to drink what it is swimming in.
Cold water shock. Sudden immersion in very cold water can cause gasping and cardiac problems. Introduce cold water gradually.
Sharp objects, fishing hooks and glass in shallow water and on banks.
Pools specifically
- Fence the pool, or use a pool alarm
- Teach the exit route until the dog can find it from anywhere in the pool, including in the dark
- Rinse chlorine off afterwards
- Never leave a dog unattended near an uncovered pool, ever
- Pool covers are a drowning hazard, not a safety measure — a dog that walks onto one goes under it
If your dog hates water
That is fine. Swimming is not a requirement. Forcing it achieves nothing and damages trust. There are plenty of other ways to exercise and cool a dog.
If you are starting this summer: shallow water, no coaxing, a floating toy, and a buoyancy aid. Let the dog decide when to go deeper.
