Most dogs need bathing far less often than people think, and over-bathing causes as many problems as under-bathing.
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How often
- Short-coated, low-odour dogs: every 8 to 12 weeks, or when actually dirty
- Double-coated breeds: every 6 to 12 weeks, more during a coat blow
- Curly and wool coats: every 3 to 6 weeks, usually with a professional groom
- Oily coats — some spaniels, Basset Hounds: every 3 to 4 weeks
- Skin conditions: as directed, often weekly with a medicated shampoo
Over-bathing strips protective oils and disrupts the skin barrier, which makes itching worse. Under-bathing in allergic dogs leaves allergens sitting on the skin.
Before the water
Brush thoroughly, right down to the skin. This is the step people skip and it matters more than any other.
Water tightens mats into felt. A mat that could have been brushed out dry becomes a solid pad against the skin once wet, and the skin underneath becomes inflamed and sometimes infected.
Use a metal comb as the test: if it cannot pass from skin to tip anywhere on the body, brush more before you add water.
Gather everything first. Shampoo, several towels, a cup or shower attachment, treats, a non-slip mat. A dog left standing wet while you find the shampoo learns that baths are unpredictable.
Non-slip surface. A rubber mat in the bath or shower. Slipping is the main reason dogs come to hate bathing, and it is entirely preventable.
Water temperature
Lukewarm. Test on the inside of your wrist — if it is comfortable for a baby, it is right for a dog.
Dogs are more sensitive to heat than we are, and water that feels pleasant to you is often too hot for them.
The process
- Wet thoroughly, from the neck backwards. Double coats take longer to wet through than you expect — keep going until the water reaches the skin everywhere
- Avoid the head at first. Do the body, then deal with the face last
- Dilute the shampoo. Most are far too concentrated to apply directly, and neat shampoo is hard to rinse out. Mix it with water in a bottle or jug
- Work it down to the skin, with your fingers or a rubber curry mitt. Shampoo sitting on top of the coat does nothing
- Leave it on. Contact time is what makes shampoo work — five to ten minutes for a medicated shampoo, a few minutes for an ordinary one. This is the second most commonly skipped step
- Rinse. Then rinse again. Residue is the leading cause of post-bath itching and flaking. Rinse until the water runs completely clear, then rinse for another minute
- Face last, with a damp flannel rather than poured water. Avoid the eyes and do not pour water into the ears
- Conditioner if the coat is long or dry, then rinse again
Drying
Towel first, blotting and squeezing rather than rubbing — rubbing creates tangles in long coats.
Then dry properly. This is the step that separates a good bath from a skin problem.
- Short coats usually air dry fine in a warm room
- Double coats need active drying. A damp undercoat against warm skin is exactly the environment hot spots develop in. A dog dryer on a cool or warm setting, never hot, is the right tool
- Long and curly coats need brushing while drying, or they dry into mats
Do not use a human hairdryer on a hot setting. Dog skin burns more easily than ours, and the noise of a high-powered dryer needs conditioning.
Ears: dry the ear flap and the visible opening with a dry cotton pad. Never push anything into the canal. Moisture in the ear is a common trigger for infection, particularly in floppy-eared breeds.
Choosing a shampoo
Never human shampoo. Dog skin has a different pH — roughly neutral, compared with the more acidic human skin — and human products disrupt the barrier.
Match it to the problem:
- General purpose: mild, unscented, for a dog with normal skin
- Oatmeal: soothing for dry or itchy skin
- Medicated: chlorhexidine, miconazole or benzoyl peroxide, for diagnosed skin infections. Use as directed and respect the contact time
- Deshedding: helps loosen undercoat during a blow
- Degreasing: for oily coats or for removing something the dog has rolled in
Wahl Dry Skin & Itch Relief Oatmeal Shampoo
A gentle oatmeal-based shampoo, concentrated enough to dilute. For most household dogs with normal or slightly dry skin, this is the right default — and diluting it makes rinsing far easier.
Avoid strongly fragranced products. Your dog’s sense of smell is far more sensitive than yours, and perfume is a frequent cause of irritation.
Making a dog tolerate it
For a dog who hates baths, go slowly:
- Feed treats in the empty bath, with no water
- Then with a few centimetres of water
- Then a wet flannel on the legs
- Then a short rinse
- Build to a full bath over a fortnight
A lick mat stuck to the wall with something spread on it turns bath time into a licking session, which is both distracting and self-soothing.
Between baths
Most dogs do not need a full bath to be presentable.
Earth Rated Dog Wipes
For paws after walks, muddy legs, and the general tidy-up that removes the need for half the baths people give. Unscented is the version to choose for sensitive skin.
Special cases
Rolled in fox faeces: apply degreasing shampoo to the dry coat first, work it in, then add water. Water on oily material makes it harder to shift.
Skunk, where relevant: a solution of hydrogen peroxide, bicarbonate of soda and washing-up liquid, mixed fresh and used immediately. Never store it in a sealed container.
Puppies: most do not need a bath at all in the first months. When they do, keep it short, warm and positive — the first experience shapes the next ten years.
After swimming: rinse off salt water and chlorine, both of which irritate skin and strip the coat.
